This place in La Bastille is a good early morning spot for a chocolate croissant and a coffee - I had both this morning. They open up at 7:30am and don't close until midnight, which is a marvel in and of itself.
If you sit inside it's like being at Grandma's house - there are scales, ancient wooden tables, old crockery and interesting bric-a-brac. Like Grandma's, there ain't a whole lot of choice either - you take a look at the counter to see what they've made for the day.
If you're lucky, they still have some Tarte Tatin (kinda like apple pie.) It's extraordinary for its size - a huge slab that weighs what feels like a kilo and the price - just 2 and half Euros. The size belies the delicate flavor - just apple and a hint of sugar on top of enough crust to hold it together. I've been here for the Tarte Tatin three times already and I only discovered it last week.
Don't be thrown off - it's located under the Chez Paul banner. Best I can figure it out - Maison Kerrenbauer is the patisserie for the restaurant Chez Paul - which is right next door. Sorry, my French is not advanced enough to ask for an explanation. So, keep an eye out for Chez Paul if you're on the street searching.