Frenchie Silverware Struggles
During my three years in Paris I've studied the locals up close like a science project. They're funny ones, the Frenchies. They rarely notice when their dogs drop a hot load on the sidewalk - best to leave that for someone else. They can be seen in summer, sporting woolen scarves like nooses, as if fearing a polar breeze. Strangest of all, they eat finger-foods with knife and fork. I've seen them carve up a burger, fork pieces of sandwich into their mouths and even attack a pizza with cutlery! So, when my Al Taglio pizza arrived pre-chopped, sans silverware, I got out my notepad and pencil. Time for some Frenchie-watching! They struggled mightily when the pizza arrived. They looked around, confused. Slowly, after accepting the lack of silverware, they reluctantly picked up their pizza shards. I wanted to give em a hug and tell em everything would be alright, but feared the pizza grease I might get on my back.
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Popelini - Paris
Then What Happened?
When I arrived back at work, fresh from Popelini, they were still arguing. The limey was gesticulating so hard, he batted his shiny thin tie over his shoulder and left it there. None noticed the long trays of cream puffs I'd placed in the middle of the table. Each was annoyed I was blocking his view of the idiot on the other side of his argument. I began to wonder about my colleagues - how can they be so passionate about work? Hello, there are rows of tiny choux à la crème, people!
When I arrived back at work, fresh from Popelini, they were still arguing. The limey was gesticulating so hard, he batted his shiny thin tie over his shoulder and left it there. None noticed the long trays of cream puffs I'd placed in the middle of the table. Each was annoyed I was blocking his view of the idiot on the other side of his argument. I began to wonder about my colleagues - how can they be so passionate about work? Hello, there are rows of tiny choux à la crème, people!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Bagatelle - Paris
Location, Location, Location
Rarely does the Paris-of-the-movies intersect with real life but on a recent afternoon, outside in sunshine filtered by leafy-green Bagatelle Park, they came together as one. The evil me felt sorry for you. You should've been there at Bagatelle, blowing off your afternoon meetings, sipping wine and taking small bites of prawn risotto with cuttlefish in veal stock. I chewed slowly, glancing at the deep blue sky and felt happy knowing the weekend, though a day off, had already arrived. The prawns had that perfect smoky barbecue aftertaste, drawing me further into summer, to the 4th of July.
Rarely does the Paris-of-the-movies intersect with real life but on a recent afternoon, outside in sunshine filtered by leafy-green Bagatelle Park, they came together as one. The evil me felt sorry for you. You should've been there at Bagatelle, blowing off your afternoon meetings, sipping wine and taking small bites of prawn risotto with cuttlefish in veal stock. I chewed slowly, glancing at the deep blue sky and felt happy knowing the weekend, though a day off, had already arrived. The prawns had that perfect smoky barbecue aftertaste, drawing me further into summer, to the 4th of July.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Versailles - Miami
Chilling in Little Havana
After a punishing round of golf at Doral it was easy to convince the dejected to make a run to Versailles for a Cuban lunch. We gorged on a variety of delectables, pushing our guts to the edge of explosion. We later napped sitting on the couch, tv blaring and upon waking didn't discuss dinner. Everyone was still full and reflecting on the lunch. I teased them for not getting the flan with coconut, one of my favorites. The Versailles version was stellar.
After a punishing round of golf at Doral it was easy to convince the dejected to make a run to Versailles for a Cuban lunch. We gorged on a variety of delectables, pushing our guts to the edge of explosion. We later napped sitting on the couch, tv blaring and upon waking didn't discuss dinner. Everyone was still full and reflecting on the lunch. I teased them for not getting the flan with coconut, one of my favorites. The Versailles version was stellar.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Asiadog - Manhattan
Thumb-Deep in Toppings
What kind of sadistic genius carpets a beef dog with cubes of barbecued pork belly? I'd read the ingredients before ordering but somehow it didn't quite hit me until I had it in my paws. There they were, cow and pig together, in optimal forms, cucumber and scallions sitting shotgun. I really enjoyed it, staining my jeans in the process. It was my first time eating an Asiadog, and it didn't take long to realize that the place is not so much about the dogs as it is about the additives.
What kind of sadistic genius carpets a beef dog with cubes of barbecued pork belly? I'd read the ingredients before ordering but somehow it didn't quite hit me until I had it in my paws. There they were, cow and pig together, in optimal forms, cucumber and scallions sitting shotgun. I really enjoyed it, staining my jeans in the process. It was my first time eating an Asiadog, and it didn't take long to realize that the place is not so much about the dogs as it is about the additives.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Cocoron Soba - Manhattan
You Better Be Good With the Sticks
One more hour of tweaking powerpoints and I was going to snap. I hoped a faraway lunch adventure would break up the drudgery. No planes involved, only a NYC subway ride to Cocoron Soba. Just what the doctor ordered - pork croquettes and plenty of noodles. However, there's work to put in - the chopstick variety. You better be able to maneuver with the wooden sticks - at Cocoron you may have to dip your own soba into boiling broth, one pinch at a time.
One more hour of tweaking powerpoints and I was going to snap. I hoped a faraway lunch adventure would break up the drudgery. No planes involved, only a NYC subway ride to Cocoron Soba. Just what the doctor ordered - pork croquettes and plenty of noodles. However, there's work to put in - the chopstick variety. You better be able to maneuver with the wooden sticks - at Cocoron you may have to dip your own soba into boiling broth, one pinch at a time.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Dans le Noir - Paris
No, Not What You're Thinking
I doubt it's a coincidence that Dans le Noir has a slew of lovely, dark ladies working the front door. However, it's not about that at all. It's not really about the food either. It's something so strange that you have to try it. That is, if you can handle it.

I doubt it's a coincidence that Dans le Noir has a slew of lovely, dark ladies working the front door. However, it's not about that at all. It's not really about the food either. It's something so strange that you have to try it. That is, if you can handle it.

Saturday, April 16, 2011
Le Meating - Paris
French Steakhouse Fail
Back in grammar school, the unlucky ate the cafeteria food. A few of us carried our lunch from home in a brown bag. Without imagination, I'd attack in order: first the carrot sticks or apples, then the sandwich and finally the dessert. One day I noticed a kid who was eating his dessert first. I asked him why. He looked at me as if I'd asked to pee on his shoes. "In case I get full, at least I've had my dessert!" This kid was clearly brilliant - he probably grew up to be an astronaut. At Meating, had I been able to start with dessert and go backwards, I would've been much happier.
Back in grammar school, the unlucky ate the cafeteria food. A few of us carried our lunch from home in a brown bag. Without imagination, I'd attack in order: first the carrot sticks or apples, then the sandwich and finally the dessert. One day I noticed a kid who was eating his dessert first. I asked him why. He looked at me as if I'd asked to pee on his shoes. "In case I get full, at least I've had my dessert!" This kid was clearly brilliant - he probably grew up to be an astronaut. At Meating, had I been able to start with dessert and go backwards, I would've been much happier.
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Nomiya - Paris
Living the High Life
So rarely do the fancy places impress. After overpaying I often feel disgust, feign indifference or burst out in laughter (Joel Robuchon.) Then there is Nomiya. It sets such a high bar and hurdles it so effortlessly that I don't consider it another "fancy" - I place it in separate orbit. We compared notes and decided that this may be the best lunch we've ever had.
So rarely do the fancy places impress. After overpaying I often feel disgust, feign indifference or burst out in laughter (Joel Robuchon.) Then there is Nomiya. It sets such a high bar and hurdles it so effortlessly that I don't consider it another "fancy" - I place it in separate orbit. We compared notes and decided that this may be the best lunch we've ever had.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Le Verre Volé - Paris
Is Canal St Martin the Paris LES?
On the train to work each morning, I squeeze my Kindle with stubby fingers and read the NY Times like it's a lifeline to home. Rarely does the Times strike a false note but today, as I read a story about Paris restaurants, I bristled at the comparison between Canal St Martin and New York's Lower East Side. The LES? Seriously? News flash - ALL the interesting neighborhoods and food in NY are in the outer boroughs, mainly in Brooklyn and Queens. It would be more apt to say that Le Verre Volé resides in Paris' equivalent of Williamsburg, Red Hook or maybe even Gowanus.
On the train to work each morning, I squeeze my Kindle with stubby fingers and read the NY Times like it's a lifeline to home. Rarely does the Times strike a false note but today, as I read a story about Paris restaurants, I bristled at the comparison between Canal St Martin and New York's Lower East Side. The LES? Seriously? News flash - ALL the interesting neighborhoods and food in NY are in the outer boroughs, mainly in Brooklyn and Queens. It would be more apt to say that Le Verre Volé resides in Paris' equivalent of Williamsburg, Red Hook or maybe even Gowanus.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Nanashi II - Paris
Japarisian Deserves a Second Look
I've always admired the hard-working Japanese ladies at Rose Bakery. They wake up early to make me scones and carrot cake for breakfast. I like to get there early to peoplewatch them mixing and kneading next to the towering double stove. One of them, Kaori Endo, left to open Nanashi in the 10th and I figured it would be a no-brainer success. When she quickly opened another in the 3rd, I was surprised. It's right in Rose's backyard. I tried it out today and while not quite ready for primetime, it deserves a repeat visit.
I've always admired the hard-working Japanese ladies at Rose Bakery. They wake up early to make me scones and carrot cake for breakfast. I like to get there early to peoplewatch them mixing and kneading next to the towering double stove. One of them, Kaori Endo, left to open Nanashi in the 10th and I figured it would be a no-brainer success. When she quickly opened another in the 3rd, I was surprised. It's right in Rose's backyard. I tried it out today and while not quite ready for primetime, it deserves a repeat visit.
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